The blossom of the bitter orange tree is steam distilled to produce an essence that is green, floral and citrus. Always comforting and uplifting.
The best bergamot oil for fragrance (the oil we use) is produced in Calabria, Italy. Responsible for giving Earl Grey tea its distinctive taste, bergamot’s sophisticated, aromatic citrus note is one of the building blocks for all colognes.
While I will never understand the French desire for everything to taste of liqourice/aniseed I do appreciate that it partners excellently with other flavours and, in the case of COLOGNE ABSOLUTE, other smells too. Tarragon’s subtle green aniseed aroma brings an extra degree of sophistication to the fragrance’s citrus notes.
Green Violet Leaf
from Egypt and France
All violet leaves are green but we thought it best to separate clearly the leaf from the distinct violet flower. Noble violet leaf absolute smells like it looks, densely green and earthy.
An oil produced from not just the lemon but the tree’s leaves and shoots too. As a result it smells far more rounded than the conventional citrus with green, woody notes.
It takes (about) 7,000,000 flowers to make 1kg of jasmine oil; picked by hand in the early hours when the oil content is at its highest. The reward for such endeavors is an oil densely honeyed and floral but with an animalic note that takes it beyond mere prettiness.
Where lightness and transparency are needed (jasmine oil is far heftier than the flower itself) the synthetic, Hedion, can also be used.
Lily of the Valley
Lily of the Valley is one flower whose wonderfully delicate aroma cannot be extracted and so must be recreated by the perfumer. While nothing can quite replicate the real thing, molecular anaylsis (using Headspace technology) and a range of synthetics designed to do exactly that means it is still a valid term, shorthand for a note with rose, lemon, grassy green and white floral aspects.
Synthetic Givescone is described by its maker Givaudan as being used ‘where real innovation is required’. Wonderfully complex; it is rosy, fruity, spicy and herbaceous.
Naturals will always have one key advantage over their synthetic counterparts to justify their expense: complexity. Patchouli is simultaneously resinous, woody, earthy, fruity and ambery.
Known as ‘nagarmoota’ in its native India. Leathery wood with a dry, spicy note reminiscent of vetiver.